How to Keep Pond Plants Alive Over Winter (Easy Care Tips)

It's important to prepare your pond plants for the cold weather before winter sets in.

Start by identifying each plant. Hardy water lilies need cold dormancy with their crowns protected from freezing, many hardy marginals stay at the pond edge, and frost-tender tropicals need indoor care or replacement in spring.

So, let's learn how to keep pond plants alive over winter with our easy-to-follow guide!

How to Winterize Pond Plants

Pond plants can survive winter with proper care, whether that be lowering them into your pond, removing them and bringing them indoors, or in some cases, leaving them be.

But, before we get into the finer details of overwintering pond plants, it's important to winterize the pond itself.  This will help keep your pond's ecosystem healthy, help keep your pond fish alive in winter, and, of course, help any plants you plan on overwintering in your pond.

To winterize a pond:

  • Remove leaves and debris from your pond.
  • Trim back any dead or dying foliage from your pond plants.
  • Add cold water beneficial bacteria (optional).
  • Stop fertilizing as growth slows in autumn, following the plant's seasonal care instructions.
  • If you shut down the pump for winter, clean and store it according to its manual. Some models can keep running in a suitable winter setup.
  • Service the filter according to its manual and winter operating plan. Keep a filter that is supporting fish supplied with the required water flow.
  • Add a pond heater or de-icer to your pond if needed (so it doesn't completely freeze over, allowing for proper gas exchange). Learn how to heat a pond in winter for more information.

Check out our guide on how to winterize a pond step-by-step for more detailed information.

Once your pond is properly winterized, we can now concentrate on your pond plants.

How you winterize your pond plants will depend on the type of plants you have, which at a high level, we can break down into two different categories - hardy pond plants and non-hardy pond plants.

Hardiness depends on the species, cultivar, and winter conditions. A plant that survives outdoors in one region may need shelter in another. Water depth also affects whether its crown or roots freeze.

Furthermore, your location will determine if a plant is hardy in your zone. We can refer to the USDA's Plant Hardiness Zone Map to see what zone you live in.

Historical 2012 USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map; use the linked current map to check your location

The image above is the older 2012 map. Use the linked USDA map for current zone information.

Combine the plant's hardiness rating with its water-depth requirements. A hardy lily can still be damaged if its crown freezes in a shallow container. Bring frost-tender plants indoors before frost, or remove them and replace them in spring.

important IMPORTANT

For specific overwintering tips, check out our pond plant care and grow guides. You'll find plant-specific care and overwintering tips, plus how to properly plant each type.

Winterizing Hardy Pond Plants

Lily leaves beneath a thin layer of pond ice

Plan before the first frost. As hardy plants become dormant, remove dead foliage and check whether their pots will stay below the expected ice level.

For hardy water lilies and lotus:

  1. Remove dead lily leaves and stems without cutting into the crown or rhizome. Follow the plant-specific guide for lotus and other species.
  2. Place suitable pots where the crown and roots stay below the winter ice. The required depth depends on local freezing conditions; one fixed pond-depth rule cannot cover every climate.
  3. Return the plants to their original location in Spring after the ice has melted.

tip Tip

If the pond can freeze to the crown of a hardy water lily, move its pot into a tub or plastic bag with a little water to keep it damp. Use a cool, dark basement or root cellar that stays near 40°F (4°C), above freezing. This gives the lily its cold rest without letting the rhizome freeze. Check stored plants periodically so their roots neither dry out nor freeze. Illinois Extension's plant groups help distinguish cold-hardy plants from frost-tender tropicals.

Hardy marginal and bog plants: leave them at a suitable planting depth if they are hardy locally. Avoid sinking every marginal into deep water. Remove dead foliage as appropriate for the species; our bog plant guide helps identify their preferred conditions.

Winterizing Non-Hardy Pond Plants

Large green leaves beside pond water

Non-hardy plants include tropical plants, plants not within your hardiness zone, and some floating pond plants like water lettuce.

You have two main options when dealing with non-hardy pond plants in winter:

  • Move the plants indoors to prevent them from freezing and dying.
  • Treat them as annuals, remove them from the pond, and replace them in spring. Dispose of invasive or easily spreading plants according to local guidance; keep them out of natural waterways.

Bring tropical plants indoors before damaging cold arrives. Match warmth, light, and water depth to the species: a floating plant kept growing indoors has different needs from a dormant tuber. A blanket 65°F storage rule will not suit every pond plant. Check for pests and remove decaying leaves during storage.

For a tropical water lily kept growing indoors, move it into an aquarium or other water container before frost. Keep the temperature above 68°F (20°C) and provide plenty of light; use a suitable plant light if the window is too dim. This active-growth method differs from cool storage of a dormant hardy lily.

Return frost-tender plants outside only when the water and nighttime temperatures suit them, then introduce brighter outdoor light gradually. For more preparation and disposal guidance, see Virginia Cooperative Extension's water-garden care guide.

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